Product Focus: Yorkshire forced rhubarb
Rhubarb in a market stall (source: Shutterstock)
What is it?
This bright pink vegetable, most commonly used like a fruit in British sweets, is the result of farmers’ attempts to control nature’s seasonal growth.
Rhubarb roots are grown outside for a minimum of two years before being moved inside to dark heated sheds. The heated environment “forces” the plants to come up quickly as they think it is spring and start to search for sunlight. This gives it its unusual January to March season.
Growing in the dark means that the stems are more tender than spring or summer rhubarb, have a sweeter flavour and more vibrant pink colour. It is harvested at night, traditionally by candlelight, so as to minimise its exposure to sunlight.
Its vivid colour ensures that it always captures the attention of top chefs, greengrocers and increasingly, social media fans.
Forced Rhubarb is harvested by candle light (source: artisanfilm, youtube)
Why is it unique?
Yorkshire forced rhubarb was awarded Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status by the EU in 2010.
It can only be produced by a small number of growers in the “rhubarb triangle” between the cities of Bradford, Wakefield and Leeds.
The rhubarb triangle (source: Wikipedia)
The soil is prepared using shoddy, a waste product from the Yorkshire wool industry that is high in nitrogen and lightens the dense, water-retaining soils typical of the region. The soil is also said to be high in sulphur due to the nearby industry, which is to the rhubarb’s liking.
The cool wet climate underneath the Pennine hills with its short growing season creates the ideal conditions root growth in the two years before being moved inside where the “forcing” begins.
Yorkshire sheep farming (source: Shutterstock)
Forced Yorkshire rhubarb has been produced in this way since the 1870s. Cheap fuel from the nearby Yorkshire coal mines was traditionally used to heat the forcing sheds, getting the products to come up at a time when fruit and vegetables were in short supply.
Recently, Dutch growers have imitated the forcing process, flooding the market with a cheaper product that has pushed many growers out of business.
Did you know?
It’s rapid growing time means that inside the sheds you can actually hear the rhubarb grow. The plants make a strange popping sound, as the buds burst and leaves unfurl.
Who grows it?
There were once over 200 rhubarb growers in Yorkshire’s ‘rhubarb triangle’, now only 10 remain.
Robert Tomlinson harvesting his crop (source: Daily Telegraph)
Robert Tomlinson (@rhubarbrobert), is a fourth generation grower of Yorkshire forced rhubarb based in Pudsey, North Yorkshire.
He has become a spokesman for the industry, posting on social media and giving interviews to national and trade media, leading a surge of interest in the product. His profile was raised further after his rhubarb was championed by star chef, Clare Smyth, and used on the menu in her ingredient focused Notting Hill restaurant, Core.
Who’s using it?
As well as Clare Smyth (you will have to scroll back to April 2019 to see her creations), Chris Basset at The Quality Chop House posted this stunning example of baking and geometry on Instagram recently.
source: @qualitychop
Tarts like this, often with a custard base, are a favourite dish. The ever reliable Great British Chefs website is on hand to tell you how you can do it at home.
London food blogger Ed Smith (@rocketandsquash) has also been posting his top tips on cooking the product, including some innovative suggestions beyond the traditional sweets.
He recommends pickling the raw stems with white wine vinegar and spices and serving as part of a savoury dish with pork or mackerel.
Source: @rocketandsquash
Where can I get it?
Natoora stock the Tomlinson family’s product (explaining why it ended up in such famous hands). It is available in stores across London and to their wholesale clients.
Farmdrop are also selling a PDO product from Westwood & Sons.
If you are in London, try Borough Market for fresh produce.